B ack to the DeltaMore Notes and Memoirs from the Intrepid Delta Explorer and Bon Vivant, Chuck "G-man" Borden. Episode 2 ![]() T he next three days, Monday - Wednesday were a mixture of exploration, great dining and more Blues. I am not going to comment on all the sites/areas visited but will make a list at the end of this random and sometimes foggy dissertation. Everyone will get something a little different out of each place when you visit in person and I sure hope you get to. Remember, (and I am not pimping his book) Steve Cheseboroughs' book on the Delta, "blues TRAVELING," is a must unless you have a native sitting beside you.I will briefly comment on several eating establishments in the Clarksdale area; Breakfast, lots of places but 'Rest Haven Restaurant' on old Rt. . 61 just south of the "Crossroads" was my place for breakfast. Perfect grits, eggs, biscuits, etc. Lunch was narrowed to anyplace with a "plate lunch." Again, Rest Haven was high on my list but Ground Zero and the 'Delta Entertainment Center' also have daily specials which were just as good. My last lunch was at Rest Haven was Red Beans and Rice w/spicy Sausage, Slaw, Mac & cheese and Crowder Peas. Again, the other two places were great and you can also check with Roger at Cat Head as he was enjoying a takeout from the 'Delta Entertainment Center' when I walked in one day. Monday involved a couple conversations with Pinetop Perkins as he too was staying at Hopson until Wednesday when he would go to Memphis for the special recognition dinner as he was the Honoree for the Handys this year. What a story teller! We sat around for an hour or so in the morning and another hour or more that evening. He and RL (Burnside) were supposed to go fishing that day but when morning came, it was way too chilly. In fact, the Sharecropper shack I was staying in felt like a fridge -- more authenticity. Pinetop was residing in one of the "Bin Inns" which were a lot more resistant to the elements. Pinetop said he really didn't care about catching fish, that was the least important part of 'going fishin' for him. But, he said, "Cold weather is not fishin' weather". I had agreed to drive him or both but I was not going to stay with them. That scene would be too sacred for an Ohio boy like me to be involved with. I did wonder what a tape recorder hidden in the tackle box would reveal but quickly decided that too would be a violation of some old Delta regulation involving the sanctity of whatever. Went back to Reds that night but not for too long as things get started a little late there, I was driving and had been warned not to get stopped in the area. However, it got crowded, the jam picked up, the guys from Ireland were there so my good intentions of not staying went out the window. (getting to be a routine with me although I did back off the Beer) Tuesday involved some more back roads exploration. Again, the places I think would interest you are listed at the end of this treatise. I just can't go into detail 'cause my take could be different plus I would not want to take the edge off. Tuesday was another "Happy Hour" at the Hopson Commissary. No music tonight, just a bunch of, can't say locals, as 4 or 5 States were represented plus a couple foreign countries. At the end of the so-called Happy Hour, about 8 of us went into Clarksdale for Dinner at the 'Ranchero', one of the 3 places for Ribs in the area. A main reason for this place was the desire for Oysters/half shelf for 4 of the Ladies. Never saw any bigger and more tasty on any coast. (the Oysters, Bobert!) A rack of Ribs, even when cut in half, still hang over the platter just as they did last fall. Made another short visit to Reds "JOOK" to pay my respects. It is now Wednesday, my last day in Clarksdale. Went across the lawn to talk with Pinetop again and found he was looking forward to the upcoming festivities. He said he wasn't much on a lot of fancy stuff but said "this could be a little special". Told me a couple stories about the 'old days' including one about "Honeyboy Edwards" which I don't think can be repeated on these hallowed pages. Plus, the confidence factor might be invoked here. I just hope some of you, and some probably already have, get this same opportunity. None of this could have been pre-planned and neither could the upcoming evening.……. Now, my plan had been to go to Ground Zero on Wednesday night as I knew beforehand that Diunna Greenleaf and 'Blue Mercy' would be there. I arrived back at Hopson about 5 PM, decided to lay down for a few minutes and accidentally dozed off. ALL OF A SUDDEN......... I heard this melodic, warm and sincere voice singing.....My first thought was, "you were a lot more tired than you thought, you have died and are hearing the song of your first Angel!" Well, after 2 more short bursts of lyrics,** I realized that I was still a part of the Earthly contingent, the voice seemed to come from everywhere, all encompassing, and I had just enough awareness to sense it was coming from the Plantation office/kitchen/musuem plus other uses building. Keep in mind that this building is like a block away. Got dressed and proceeded to walk down the new and narrow concrete sidewalk which now took on the appearance of the "Yellow Brick Road". I had a slight inkling of who the voice belonged to but wasn't sure since I had only heard a 30 second sound clip a few weeks before. I walked into the office and said "Okay, who was doing that singing"? The lady in the kitchen turned around and said "it was me and my name is...." I interrupted and said I knew who she was. (Saw her picture before) It was Diunna Greenleaf and her band was sitting at the dinning room table. I said I did not mean to interrupt, but before I could get out , she asked me some questions, said that she fixes dinner several times a week for the band and said I was going to eat with them. I really tried to refuse but for some reason it did not work. She fixed the biggest Salads on the Planet with every ingredient ever placed on any salad and she had prepared her own special recipe of Beef Brisket. Soooo, I sat there with the winners of the 2005 International Blues Challenge, had an amazing dinner and listened to some personal discussion among the members. **(turns out she was "calling the Band to Supper") The Brisket was the best I ever had, the insights into a touring band were educational and during their talk, they started to plan on how the guitar player would get away to come back for Diunna. (They had their schedule moved up and were going to open the gig without her) I managed to sputter that I was going there and would be happy to provide the transportation for Ms. Greenleaf. So, I did. Dropped her off at the door like I knew what I was doing and still got inside in time to watch the grand entrance to the stage. One more comment, I had moved away from the bar to the other side of the club, near the back which offered a great view of the stage. Just one other guy at this long table, a local musician who was sitting at the other end. Just as a song was ending (and I was really into it) I felt a hand on my shoulder and a voice said "you apparently like this band". I looked around and it was Morgan Freeman who had just arrived. He stayed at the table for 20 minutes or so although we did not exchange words for more than 4 or 5 minutes as the people started to line up t have their picture taken with hem. He was inordinately agreeable to this and even went to the other side of the club so those people could have the same opportunity. You probably won't get the charge out of this evening tale as I did but it was fun in the retelling. What a show that band put on! Now, the following is very important. I have dropped a few names here which we all have heard of. BUT, what is almost mysterious to me is that any contact with any Blues fan is just as important. Two examples that Wednesday; I was in the Blues Museum in Clarksdale and was relating the Saturday afternoon spent in Sam Carrs' living room with Waymon and Bobert at last years Handys. This was done with Joni Mayberry and Mae Smith, who help run the place. After I finished, a couple walked over and said "we heard you talking about Mr. Carr." Turns out they were from Australia on a visit to the "Holy Land" and he was the tour manager on Sam Carrs last appearance in their Country. I went on to Ground Zero for lunch, guess who shows up? I then stop by the Clarksdale library to check email, reading away when a voice behind me says "well, we meet again". Yep, the Australian couple again. Each encounter provided conversation, exchange of information and even more, the sharing of a love for this music which provides a common bond between people that I have never before experienced. The same thing happened with 2 guys from Ireland, a couple from Japan (the 'bond' did not completely solve the language difference although Richard Johnston had no problem conversing with the same couple 3 nights later on Beale Street. He seemed to have a better grasp of the dialect than did the young lady from Japan.) My point is this.......whether it is some of people I first mentioned, or Deadeye and the Como Connection plus others I did not have time to see, the feeling, the bond and the commonality is the same with everyone. This includes an email from "the Dog," a phone call from Bobert and Scott or the same from any other Tweedzer including the posts on this "sorry excuse for a Blues site". Please, notice quotation marks! If there is a "mystery" involving this music, I pray it never gets solved. I like it just the way it affects me. Thanks for letting me ramble. I know that others have experienced the same things and for a longer period of time. I just love reliving it since it is fairly new for me. Next, on to Memphis and the 4 days of the Handys. |