Soooo, the trip started on Friday, April 29th with the first destination
being a cafe in Nashville where the Duo of Elam McKnight and Mr.Keith would be
holding court. It is also good to note he was opening for Jimbo Mathus.
I arrived later than planned which I can somewhat attribute to Chris Cottons'
CD "I watched the Devil Die." I had slipped this in the player while still
inside Ohio and got into it too much, did not bother to keep on I-71 and so
ended up on I-75 heading for Tampa rather than Nashville. BlackOak is aware of my
penchant for listening to Blues too closely and veering off in the wrong
direction. Anyway, I noticed the compass was showing 'S' as opposed to 'SW' and
decided this was not right. Whats' a couple hours out of the way?

After a quick stop at the Hotel, I headed for the club. Keep in mind Elam was
unaware of my plans. Went in, sat at the bar and listed to the music. I am
really liking his stuff. The gal behind the bar was a friendly outgoing type and
I ask her to take the CD I had from Elam to him at the end of his set to get
it signed. She was hip to the idea, even without the 5 Bucks I gave her. I
ended up moving to a table just in front of the stage and proceeded to take
several pictures, mostly of his partner, pretending I wasn't that interested in him.

The set is over, Elam is packing up and here comes the gal with the CD. She
was perfect with one exception - she moved in front of Elam just as she told
him who to sign it to -- 'Garageman.' Could not capture the look on his face but
his smile afterwards told the story. It worked!

Jimbo and 'Olga', who I had met in Clarksdale last fall, performed. I liken
Olga to a "Jewel" type artist. I did not know until that night she was a
performer, guitar and vocals. A neat evening.

After the first night of not enough sleep which became the pattern for the
next 10 days, it was on to Leland, MS, and the 14th annual Crawfish Festival.
The next 30 hours are a little hazy (gots to learn to take notes) but the crowd
was large, friendly and ready for a party!
The 13 piece band, "The Krackerjacks", from Louisiana was hot, just like the
Crawfish. My first time ever for this delicacy and they were great. I do
recommend staying upwind from the cooking and main serving areas.

Checked into the hotel in Greenville, MS, and after a short break, went to a
club on Walnut Street where the first Cajun band from the Festival was
playing, 'The Lost Bayou Ramblers'. Don't remember the club name or the time we
left. Met a bunch of locals who were very eager to show me the area. The locals
dancing in front of the band would make anyone review their dancing ability. Wow!

A note on staying in Greenville; I stayed at the Best Western Inn and
Conference Center. Outstanding! Had the multistory Atrium with an adjoining dining
area. Great rate and their "Continental Breakfast" include scrambled eggs,
Biscuits and Sausage gravy.

Sunday....... checked out the Levee and while standing there, imagined I
could hear the "hollers" the workers sang while building the Levee a hundred
years ago with men, mules and wheelbarrows.

Greenville is a town where more time needs to be spent. Probably worth a 3
night stay due to Nelson and Walnut Streets. Walnut St. is becoming a major
Blues venue. but............ this was the day of Pinetop Perkins, Willie "Bigeyes"
Smith and Willies' guitar player, Bob Stroger, in the Commissary at the
Hopson Plantation outside of Clarksdale. (Batty, never did see Kermit)

Arrived there about an hour before the show (3:30) and moved into my favorite
"Shackup Inn" shack, the Cadilac Shack. Don't ask, I have no idea why they
named it nor do I need to know. One of the smallest, quaint and decorated with a
million "Church Fans." For those of you unfamiliar with this place, they have
6 of the original Sharecropper shacks that have been moved there, upgraded
with running water and electricity. Still maintain the wooden floors and walls
with the tin roofs. They also have a project called the "Bin Inn(s)' which are
circular grain bins converted to motel rooms. You gotta' stay there at least
once. (My second time since last Fall).

Well, to the meat of the story. Willies' guitar player was outstanding. He
was a match with Willie who plays the Drums, Harp and does vocals. A big crowd
at the place, like stepping back into a time long past and I get goosebumps
every time I go in there. Had the requisite pulled pork sammiches? I only had 4
cause they ran out but only at the end of the night.

The next thing I was aware of was being forced against my will to accompany
Joni Mayberry (assistant at the Clarksdale Museum), Pinetop, Willie and Bob
Stroger to "Reds". Reds' is known as the only remaining true to form Juke Joint
in Clarksdale. This was getting kinda late and other musicians started showing
up after we got there. Big "T" was there, can't remember the Bass player and
the drummer was from the Clarksdale Museum school of the Blues. The place got
down and dirty, Red was having a ball and I remember something about a glass
or two of "White Whiskey". Anyone else heard of this stuff? Smooooooth!

Reds is a classic example of the old "Jook". Five or six bar stools which had
never been together until they individually arrived at Reds, bar covered with
Linoleum, five tables with chairs in various parts of the room and a large
chunk of carpeting along one wall, the carpet serving as the 'bandstand.'

Willie and Bob did a long Jam while Pinetop sat there really into the music.
Reds' has never seen a piano, I am sure. Big "T," Willie and Bob played a
set and the others moved in and out of the set as they wanted. Talked with Big
"T" at length, he is a good source of knowledge on the area and a neat guy.
Everyone seemed to play for a long, long time and again I am not sure what time
it ended.

Hmmnn, seems to be a pattern showing here? So much for the first 3 days, next
3 Saturday.



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